Chalice News from 2006
Ready for the 2006 season -
Chalice is now back on her summer mooring at Oban after spending the winter tucked away in the Caledonian canal and having just spent a week spent on the slipway at Mallaig where skipper Chris has been working hard to get her ready for the coming season.
Dodging the rain showers (all of the work has to be done outside) the hull and all of the superstructure has been repainted, including new 'anti-fouling' paint below the water line. Other work carried out at the yard included fitting a new stern fairlead and top rail, modifications to the bow fairlead, a new water inlet and sea cocks for the for'ard bathroom, and replacement anodes on the keel. Internally, new doors have been fitted to the galley, saloon and wheelhouse, new carpets laid in the main saloon and the refrigeration system replaced.
Although the passage to and from Mallaig wasn't blessed with the best of weather, there was quite a lot of bird activity with razorbills, shearwaters and guillemots zooming around, and several sightings of porpoise activity in the Sound of Mull. Chalice arrived in Oban on Friday afternoon in flat calm conditions and some glorious sunshine - let's hope that this is an omen for the coming months!
Cruise 1 - Easter Extravaganza (4 nights)
A very windy prelude to the cruise led to an unscheduled first night in Oban and an early start on the following morning in settled conditions. Chalice sailed in sunshine to a sheltered bay in the Sound of Mull, where guests enjoyed a leisurely late breakfast and we saw our first sea eagle of the season. Later in the day we also watched a golden eagle (we watched it, watching us...etc!) perched high on a rocky ledge surveying its domain.
We visited Tobermory, Loch Sunart, Staffa (Fingal's Cave) and Gometra, completing a full circuit of Mull with a final night in Loch Spelve. Guests enjoyed walks ashore and a variety of other wildlife including wild goats, guillimots, razorbills, puffins, shags, northern divers, manx shearwaters and gannets.
And the weather? Well, one guest summed it up as, 'we certainly got four seasons in one day, but it all added to the experience and the scenery is absolutely fantastic!'
Cruise 2 - Awash With Colour (6 nights)
Wildlife artist Bruce Pearson was a definite 'hit' with guests as we explored some quiet bays and anchorages and they discovered hidden talents. Bruce said, "the level of art that has been produced this week is astonishing. It's great to see people trying new techniques and helping them to appreciate what they're looking at in a different way".
With the emphasis being on creating opportunities for guests to be able to draw and paint both on and off the boat, we sailed for a maximum of four hours a day, making sure that there was plenty of time to enjoy walks ashore and some stunning scenery. Starting with drawing and sketching, Bruce soon moved the guests on to bigger images, colour and (scary to some) bigger brushes!! Subject matter ranged from castles and seascapes to vegetation and wildlife, with a lively session studying gulls as they wheeled around us in the breeze one morning.
We weren't disappointed by the wildlife either, with a great sighting of a white-tailed sea eagle, golden eagles, eider ducks, seals, and many other sea birds. However, the highlight for most people was being able to watch two otters ashore as we sat and ate lunch on board Chalice.
This cruise was not aimed at accomplished artists - just people who enjoy drawing and painting and would like to explore or improve their abilities and techniques. Everyone agreed that they'd had a fantastic time and begrudgingly left us on the last day. We're already planning the 2007 cruise.
Cruise 3 - Inner Hebrides (6 nights)
One of the advantages of a flexible itinerary and a host of anchorages to choose from saw Chalice sailing into an beautiful location that we haven't visited for a long time. Easterly winds meant that the harbour at Canna would have been quite uncomfortable, so an unscheduled visit was made into Loch Moidart for our second night.
This is a mainland loch, and although the entrance can be tricky for the skipper, the setting is stunning. Chalice anchored between the islands of Shona and Raiska, with great views across to Castle Tioram which we visited after walking on Shona. The following days saw us sailing in brilliant sunshine and calm waters, visiting Loch Nevis, Lochs Scavaig and Coruisk, and then Canna. Following an early morning walk on Canna, we sailed on a glass-flat sea (honestly!) down the west cost of Rum with good views of the raised beaches and the eerie and almost surreal sight of the Bullough Mausoleum at Harris.
Having already seen several eagles and enjoyed the seal colony at Loch Scavaig, the day turned into a bit of a wildlife extravaganza and we were able to watch common dolphins feeding around the boat, then five minke whales as we sailed toward Lunga in the Treshnish Isles to see the puffins. Although right at the beginning of the breeding season, these comical little birds have already established a prescence on Lunga - let's hope that they have another successful season here and that they manage to find plentiful supplies of food.
A quiet night in one of our favourite anchorages around Loch Na Keal preceeded another calm sunny day that allowed us to sail right around the south of Mull, passing Staffa and Iona en route. An afternoon walk on Mull (and yet another eagle sighting) saw Chalice anchored in Loch Spelve
Cruise 4, St Kilda and the Outer Isles (8 nights)
Our first St Kilda trip of the season saw us joined by James Fair, the Travel Editor for BBC Wildlife Magazine. However the weather conspired against us and the unseasonal strong easterly winds continued for most of the week, only to be interrupted by near-gale force southerly then northerly wind! How annoying is that? It was apparent that we'd need a good 'Plan B' so we headed north calling in at Rona, The Shiants and Loch Ceann Dibig, Harris, with overnight stops in Plockton and Loch Kerry on the way.
By taking this route we managed to avoid the worst of the wind and choose more favourable sea conditions for our longer passages. The Shiants turned out to be 
the highlight of the cruise and the guests enjoyed a good walk ashore and lots of bird life on and around the islands. However, we were equally intrigued to get a friendly wave from the crew of a Royal Navy Trafalgar Class submarine just north of Skye as they entered the range in the Inner Sound for exercises!
On the return leg of the journey we spent half a day ashore at Canna and also enjoyed a visit to Muck before anchoring in Loch Drumbuie. Our return around Ardnamurchan Point was met by two common dolphins which played in our bow wave for several minutes. A beautiful sunny morning saw us all ashore on the small unspoiled island of Oronsay which revealed an amazing array of wild flowers and stunning views over Loch Sunart. Those (very quiet) guests who were up early enough also saw two otters on the shore.
Although this was a lovely sunny day a brisk northerly wind was giving 'lumpy' sea conditions around Ardnamurchan but we cruised gently down the Sound of Mull to Ardtornish Bay which was perfectly sheltered - once again we were entertained by a group of six dolphins who entertained the guests with their effortless performance. After another walk ashore where the more energetic souls walked to the top of the cliffs overlooking the bay, we lifted the anchor and sailed off for a final quiet night at anchor in Loch Spelve, Mull.
Not reaching St Kilda could be taken as a disappointment, but the guests all agreed that the destinations that we had been able to visit and the sights that we had more than compensated for this. After a brief taste of a southerly gale in the Minch, we all realised that 'pushing on regardless' was not an option!
(Bridled Guillemot seen at the Shiant Islands)
Cruise 5, Outdoor Photography Reader Holiday (7 nights)
The only thing missing from this holiday was Outdoor Photography Magazine editor Keith Wilson, who was unavoidably detained at the last moment. He's really going to kick himself when he sees what he's missed! Co-leader Chris Gomersall did a fantastic job of looking after the guests and managed to find time to give some 1-to-1 advice when required, do a couple of after-dinner presentations and even take the occaisional photograph himself.
Guests enjoyed an amazing week of sunshine, calm seas, abundant wildlife, scenery and.....fog! Of all the challenges presented to a photographer, fog at sea must be one of the trickiest. The calm weather was fantastic, but with it came some pretty dense fog that threatened to curtail activities. We used the situation to get the Zodiac into the harbour at Canna and work with the rafts of sea birds that had settled just off the anchorage. The diffused light caused by the fog actually did us a favour considering a lot of the subject matter was basically black and white.
We also saw an incredible marine banquet taking place between Skye and Canna: sailing through dense fog around Canna, we passed close to a couple of basking sharks and one minke whale. Suddenly we sailed out of thefog bank into a splendid summer afternoon - behind us, ugh - in front Skye, the Cuillins and a mirror flat sea. Within two minutes we saw a big shark fin, then realised that there were two basking sharks about 200 meters apart, slowly feeding in the current. We stopped the boat and drifted with one of the sharks making several close passes, at one time swimming right under the hull. It was a monster fish - with a girth of over a metre and around 7 metres long, it was the biggest one I've seen so close up. It had a very distnguishing pale scar between its dorsal fin and tail and was accompanied by several cleaner wrass.
Then we noticed the krill 'fizzing' on the surface it was everywhere and so dense that it looked like red dye in the water. The sharks were enjoying a feast. Suddenly just off the bow, the water appeared to boil as hundreds of small fish broke the surface - usually a sign that they're being persued by something bigger. Looking over the side we saw a huge shoal of mackerel in the clear water. Then someone shouted 'minke whale!' and sure enough, we also had a whale passing by too. As we started to take in the whole spectacle, we noticed that a curious seal had come along to see what all of the fuss was about, and there were gannets and terns putting on various displays of acrobatic feeding and diving. The photographers on board scrambled to try and change to wide-angled lens so that they could fit it all in!
As the week continued we saw common and bottlenose dolphin, more basking sharks, golden and sea eagles, and enjoyed a veritable puffin-fest on Lunga, where we met wildlife photographer Michael MacGregeor.
All participants on the holiday will be submitting five images to Chris Gomersall who will be liasing with Outdoor Photography magazine regarding an overall winner and forthcoming article. We'll be posting some of the 'handiwork' as soon as the images are available. In the mean time, if you don't believe how calm it was.....
(Staffa and Fingals Cave)
Cruise 6 - The Outer Hebrides & St Kilda (Speyside Wildlife)
Not listed in our cruising schedule (so fo those of you who thought, 'aha, they've got a week off' - forget it! We never close!!) was our private charter for guests from willdife holiday specialists Speyside Wildlife. In total contrast to the OP cruise, the weather was - in a nutshell - appalling. Eight days of rain, mist, fog and then wind. It sounds awful doesn't it? Not likely, we had a great time!
We quickly worked our way over to the Outer Hebrides, visiting Loch Pooltiel on Skye (where the sun did make a guest appearance) before spending 
the night in the wonderfully remote Loch Eport. The following day saw us pass through the sound of Harris, lunching in Borve Bay before moving up to Kearstay then Loch Resort. Although the weather was favourable for a reasonable crossing to St Kilda, teh group decided that low cloud, mist and rain would not give the them a worthwhile visit and that the crossing time would be better spent exploring ashore on the outer isles. This paid dividends and we were rewarded with a majestic fly-past by a pair of sea eagles, followed by the fascinating spectacle of an otter fishing and feeding only a stones-throw in front of us on the beach. Thanks to Ted for the great photo!
A visit to the Shiant Islands in quite a rough sea prevented us from landing, but the sheer cliffs disappearing into the cloud and the volume of sea birds was declared a definite 'moment of the week' by two guests.
Having a flexible itinerary means that we can literally change our minds with regard to destinaton at a moments notice, so we then headed off to the Crowlin Islands for an impromtu visit before anchoring at Plockton, spending time watching a basking shark in the spectacular setting of Caolas Rona on the way.
Following a stroll around Plockton on Sunday morning by guests and crew (seemed a shame not to, considering the rain had stopped) we sailed under the controversial Skye bridge and through the Kyles of Lochalsh down to Isleornesay before moving on to Loch na Uamh. We were joined by three large bottlenose dolphins who stayed with us for almost five minutes, effortlessly bow-riding and turning to look at the strange creatures peering down at them from the deck of Chalice! No sooner had they left us than we spotted another basking shark, which we watched from a distance as it fed lazily in the current.
A last sheltered night in Loch Drum na Bhuidh (Drumbuie) produced our only sunset of the week, which passed almost unnoticed as the passengers chatted eagerly about the sightings of the holiday. Guide Duncan described the trip as 'exquisite' and pointed out that despite the weather, we had seen more wildlife than on the same cruise last year (when we did go to St Kilda)!
Cruise 7 - Islands on the Edge - St Kilda and the Outer Hebrides (8 nights).
A calm sea and clear skies saw us making a dash across the south Minch to the outer Hebridean island of Eriskay. Although a new pontoon has been installed for 'visitors', this was full so we dropped anchor in the small harbour and the guests all went ashore to explore an island that was a 'first' for all of them.
The crew were all up and busy by 5.00am as another beautiful day sugested that we would enjoy a good crossing out into the Atlantic and up to St Kilda. Puzzlement that the anchor semed to be taking forever to reveal itself turned to dismay when we found that we had 'caught' a rather substantial steel hawser tha some kind person had disposed of in theharbour. Although inconvenient, we soon managed to remove it from the anchor and were underway by 5.30am, making our way through the Sound of Barra. We made a lunch stop at the Monach Islands before heading west for the now clearly visible St Kilda archipeligo, which was still some 35 miles away.
As we drew closer to the islands, the bird activity slowly increased, with flights of gannets gliding effortlessly by, while curious fulmars came alongside to check us out. Calm sea conditions meant that we easily spotted a minke whale as is passed by about 100 metres away.
Everyone was keen to get ashore and explore again and there was plenty of time to wander around the old village before dinner. The following morning the weather forecast was for winds to change to the south east and increase overnight so we spent the whole morning ashore before taking Chalice out to Boreray, Stac Lee and Stac an Armin before heading back to Loch Resort, Harris. The following morning was spent on the island of Scarp, and then we sailed through the Sound of Harris and back across the Minch to Loch Pooltiel, Skye.
We'd heard radio activity that suggested that there was a joint naval exercise taking place in the area, and on approaching Skye we saw that we had our own personal guard ship (courtesy of the Swedish navy - or maybe it was Ikea....) that was patrolling back and forth across the entrance to the loch! So, secure in the knowledge that we were highly unlikely to be sunk by enemy submarines, we enjoyed a peaceful night at anchor.....
We then moved back down to Canna for a night, then sailed around Rum and Eigg in glorious sunshine before visiting Muck en route to Tobermory, where we were in for a treat! After dinner we were entertained for almost two hours by a pair of bottlenosed dolphins who were clearly enjoying showing off as only dolphins can. There antics were applauded by everyone in the harbour, and they made a special visit out to Chalice where they spy-hopped, flipped and tail-splashed in a display normally only seen in large aquariums.
Our last night was spent in a quiet corner of Loch Spelve, Mull, where we watched a short-eared owl and then an otter as it fished in the kelp.
There's a short video of the dolphins available for downloading from our home page
Cruise 8 - 'Not the St ilda Cruise' No1 (8 nights)
No less than nine guests who have sailed with us before joined us for this cruise.....no pressure to deliver the goods then!
The whole idea of our 'Not the St Kilda Cruises' is that we go to sea with no fixed itinerary, but with the aim of sailing to places where we normally cannot spend much time as we need to cover the distance to St Kilda and back. We started by heading up to Isleornesay, where wildlife artist Bruce Pearson had an exhibition at the popular An Tallag Dearg Art Gallery on Skye. From Skye we quickly sailed north through Kyle Rhea (14kts with the tide!!) and on to the beautiful Island of Rona. Not over-enthusiastic about the weather conditions, we left Rona late in the day and in a strong wind anchored in Loch Toridon, just off the village of Shieldaig. By morning, the wind had abated and we set sail straight away for the Shiant Islands in the North Minch. We were soon rewarded with some very active common dolphins who joined us to bow-ride for a while before darting off in persuit of their breakfast!
Unsettled weather (and more fog later that day) once again had us looking for a safe place to stay for the night and so we chose to slip into Loch Ceann Dibig, Harris.
The following day, we crssed the Minch once again, anchoring in Moonen Bay, west Skye, where we enjoyed watching a magnificent sea eagle ranging along the cliffs while we lunched on deck. Looking for a 'good long day ashore', we then sailed on to Canna, where we all walked before dinner, with a view to spending the followig morning exloring the neighbouring island of Sanday.
Unfortunately, 'the following morning' had other ideas and we woke to rain, fog and a strengthening wind. It was time for plan B (or was it C....). Skipper Rob Barlow on ELizabeth G radioed to say that he was heading north and 'the weather is pants' which is a seafaring term for 'yuk'. I decided that our best bet was to head back toward Loch Sunart and we arrived there mid afternoon and anchored in the sheltered bay at Doirlinn. The guests all went ashore on the islands of Carna and Oronsay to explore and then we watched seals with their pups - watching us watching them watching us... - in the inlet to Loch Teacus.
The following day saw us ashore at Ardtornish, Morvern, with much walking and scrambling as the guests explored new territories. Golden and sea eagles made guest appearances, and we later spteed a juvenile bird flyig along cliffs in the Firth of Lorn as e headed for a final night in Loch Spelve, Mull. Using a different anchorage paid dividends as before long an otter appeared and entertained us until it was too dark to see.
Cruise 9 - 'Not the St Kilda Cruise' No2 (8 nights)
Determined that we would set about this trip in a totally different way, I couldn't believe that once again strong southwesterly winds saw us scurrying north around teh top of Skye. However, by the end of day two the wind had dropped away to almost nothing and we spent a fantastic night anchored at Acarseid Mhor, Rona. The following morning we headed straight for the Shiants and once again were joined by a group of comon dolphins as we cruised passed Staffin Bay.
The Shiants were very ethereal and looked more like Boreray in the St Kilda archipeligo, being shrouded in a wispy mist. We nosed carefully into the anchorage and before anyone had the chance to set foot on dry land, the mist lifted. While the guests, and their guide Karen, went ashore to explore, Chris and the crew took off in the Zodiac to check out the huge rafts of sea birds, some seal pups and the natural arch that runs through Garbh Eilean. All too soon it was time to move on and not wanting to miss the opportunity of sailing in such calm conditions, we headed straight for the Sound of Harris and Taransay where we enjoyed a spectacular sunset.
The following morning saw us all going ashore to wander along the beautiful sandy beaches and soak up someHebridean sunshine. The hardier amongst the guests ventured as far as having a swim - I think I understand why the 'Men of the Minch' are blue now.... After lunch we sailed for the Monach Islands, spending some time off Pabbay watching basking sharks laziliy feedining in the current.
Another beach landing at the Monachs let the guests experience another true Hebridean wilderness. The south beach - which is exposed to the prevailing wind and swell - is littered with 'sea junk'. There is no doubt that the islands would look far better without all of this detritus, but it does lend a certain mystery to a place when you begin to consider just how far some of the rubbish has travelled to land on a particular beach. I'm always amazed at the number of sandals and flip-flops that are lying around at the tide line...
After spending a night with the seal choirs of the Monachs we headed down the Atlantic side of the Uists and through the sound of Barra, seeing yet more basking sharks on the way before spending a calm night at anchor at Vatersay, where one guest decided he could happiy live -'it's much prettier than our village...'
Checking that everything was where it should be at around three in the morning, I was dismayed to see that we were completely shrouded in dense fog, but I needn't have worried as the following morning arrived with a clear blue sky and yet another big spidery sun. Eager to make the most of the day were soon off to Mingulay which was picture-postcard perfect and complimented with the now obligatory basking shark just off the beach. Bizarrly, three guests decided that they 'wouldn't bother going ashore' but after a (very) brief pep-talk, they soon saw the error of their ways and eventually came back full of enthusiasm for what must be one of the prettiest islands in the Hebrides.
The island was a riot of colour and wildlife - the best news being that the puffins (which were absent at this time last year) were busily popping in and out of hundreds of burrows with beaks full of sandeels. A steep climb from the beach gave stunning views north over Barra and the Uists. After spending most of the day ashore and beachcombing along the fine sandy beach it was time to head off to Coll and Loch Breachacha (not one, but TWO castles) and... yup more basking sharks. On and an otter for good measure.
The only species that we had not seen by this time were white-tailed sea eagles, so the following morning we headed back toward the Sound of Mull (with a quick stop at the chocolate factory in Tobermory en route...) where we were eventually rewarded with a buzzard, a golden eagle and then 'the real thing'!
This is a photograph of the map in the main saloon on Chalice (thanks Karen!). We record all 'good' whale and dolphin sightings through the season, and update the route on the map at the end of each day's sailing.
This is what the map looked like at the end of the 'Not St Kilda (No2) Cruise', with the dotted line showing our route - a distance of around 400 nautical miles over which we visited 12 different locations including the Monach Islands and Mingulay.
West Highland Yachting Week 2006 (29th July - 4th August)
Once again, if you think we've been doing nothing because there were no dates shown on the cruising schedule, think again! Chalice and crew have been acting as Race Management Support for West Highland Yachting Week. Starting at Craobh Haven the yachts first of all raced to Oban with the following two days seeing racing events being staged in the Firth of Lorne. Next followed a race to Tobermory with further racing in the north end of the Sound of Mull and then finally a race back from Tobermory to Oban.
Unlike last year when fantastic weather saw the racing brought to a halt as the sun shone and boats were becalmed, there was sufficient wind on all days to ensure that the yacht crews were kept busy. It's just unfortunate that the wind tended to blow in the wrong direction......which is why Chalice has two big engines and no sails!
We managed to get back to Oban around lunch time on Friday 4th, just in time to take on fuel and water in preparation for a Sunday change-over for our next cruise.....
Cruise 10 - Canna to Coll with Speyside Wildlife (6 nights).
One of the advantages of not having to sail to a fixed itinerary is that if the weather conspires against us, we can do something about it. Which was just as well for for this trip....
After a quiet first night in Loch Drum na Bhuidhe, we headed north for Canna. However, we'd only been sailing for around twenty minutes when someone came ito the wheelhouse and said "I think I've just seen a sunfish....". This would have been an impressive and unusual sighting anywhere in the Hebrides, but just out of the Sound of Mull? Stopping the boat we gently cruise back to the area of the sighting and sure enough - a sunfish! The creatue was quite elusive and after watching it swim about for around fifteen minutes, we moved on - only to see yet another sunfish around a mile away! Amazing!
Later at Canna everyone enjoyed a good walk ashore around the east of the island. We were amazed to see that even now there are still some orchids in bloom on Compass Hill. The following morning was all change on the weather front with forecasts of strong westerly winds. Several of out guests had already proved that they were in the 'timid sailor' class, so we headed straight back for the Sound of Mull and the shelter of Tobermory. While the wind blew, we enjoyed the shelter of the bay, knowing that we could slip out and explore the calmer waters around Mull and Ardnamurchan without causing any unnecessary discomfort to the guests.
Speyside guide Steve had embarked with a nagging toothache which progressively worsened, but we were able to get him to a dentist in Tobermory who prescribed some antibiotics which soon began to sort him out. Guests enjoyed a leisurely walk ashore to Aros Park, with a couple of brave souls braving the wind for a walk out to Rubha nan Gal lighthouse.
The wind had no intention of abating and in the end blew quite strongly for four or five days. However, we managed to slip into the shelter of Loch Sunart, Loch Aline and Ardtornish which was appreciated by all on board and rewarded us with great sightings of eagles and other birdlife.
Cruise 11 - St Kilda (8 nights)
Our last St Kilda cruise of the season rewarded us with two nights out at the archipeligo and stunning views of the islands in very different light conditions.
The cruise started in splendid style with three very active bottlenose dolphins bowriding for several minutes on our first evening! The following day, having spent a beautiful afternoon walking on Canna, we headed straight for the Sound of Harris via Neist Point, where we stopped for lunch. The idea had been to anchor in Loch Rodel, but some kindly fisherman had seen fit to lay a line of fishing creels across the anchorage, so we reverted to 'plan B' - Taransay.
The Sound of Harris is always an 'interesting' passage - we entered in thick mist, dodged undersized fishing buoys and then exited into quite a 'lumpy' Atlantic, which was probably something to do with a 'gale force 8' that had been blowing further west. However, the anchorage at Taransay was perfect and everyone agreed that the journey had been worthwhile.
Rather than simply sail on to St Kilda straight away, a lovely sunny morning tempted us ashore on Taransay. Some guests simply wandered along the beautiful sandy beaches, while the more energetic amongst them set off to climb the hills and explore further afield. Excitedly, the more adventurous ones returned - "we can see St Kilda!!" they reported. The sea had calmed overnight and with an obvious lull in the weather we wasted no time in continuing our journey, reaching Village Bay, Hirta in the early evening. The following morning was quite misty, but this seemed to add to the overall atmosphere and we all went ashore to explore the village. Low cloud and mist prevented anything too adventurous as it is all too easy to get lost and disorientated, but everyone found enough to fascinate them around the bay.
After lunch we took Chalice out around the surounding islands of Boreray and Soay and Dun, spending time under the impressive Stac Lee and Stac an Armin watching huge numbers of gannetts wheeling around in the sky. This spectacle alone matches the splendour of this wild location. (Photograph courtesy C.Smith and S. Smith, 'Power of Scotland')
Moving away from Hirta brought us into warm sunshine, the cloud in Village Bay caused by warm moist air being forced up and over the top of the islands. Sailing around Soay we were greeted with a glass-flat sea and rosy late-afternoon sunlight that beautifully lit the rocks of Dun. We spent a second night at anchor in Village Bay before sailing the following morning for the Monach Isles and then on to Vatersay.
After a night at Vatersay, it was all ashore for a walk along the beaches and across the narrow isthmus to the west side of the island where a small monument acts as a lasting reminder of the tragic shipwreck off the ‘Annie Jane’ which went on the rocks on this beach on 28th September 1853. The remains of the 350 men, women and children who lost their lives are interred here - a solemn reminder of how harsh this environment can be.
It was then back across the Minch and the Cairns of Coll and in to Tobermory for a quiet night on a mooring. Having spent quite a long time 'at sea' over the preceding week, it was now time to slow the pace of the travelling a little and begin to walk off the excesses of the week! After a brief visit ashore the following morning, we sailed to Loch Aline where guests were put ashore at the head of the loch for a walk around to Ardtornish, where Chalice would meet them again.
The final night was spent at Anchor in Ardtornish Bay before sailing back into Oban. After passing the island of Rubh an Ridire on the way to watch the seals, we also enjoyed splendid views of a young sea eagle that sat within a couple of hundred metres from us as we sailed passed, before lazily taking off and giving everyone the opportinity to see its distinctive white tail and head.
Cruise 12 -Inner Hebrides (6 nights)
The main action started soon after leaving Oban, when we spotted a group of active bottlenose dolphins just north of Duart Castle in the Sound of Mull. The dolphins seemed to spot us too and soon joined us to bow-ride with us as we sailed on and passed Craignure. They even brought 'junior' along too! It's amazing to watch them swimming so easily - and obviously enjoying themselves - right on the bow of the boat, then suddenly they will dart off in another directon, easily outpacing the us.
Dodging some windy weather at the start of the week we visited Canna, Loch Nevis, Loch Morar, Loch Hourn, Isleornesay, Rum, Loch Sunart, Coll, Tobermory and Loch Aline (but not necessarily in that order....). Although the dolphins didn't return there was an abundance of bird life around the Small Isles, with shearwaters, gannets, fulmars, bonxie (great skua) and kittiwake all actively flying around.
Cruise 13 - Inner Hebrides (6 nights)
Heading straight for Canna, we met with a small basking shark that was cruising beneath the cliffs of the neighbouring island of Sanday. The weather ws perfect for an afternoon ashore and guests soon disappeared in all directions, some enjoying a leisurely stroll around the harbour to Sanday while guide Penny took others to see the the old Celtic Cross and the standing stone, before ascending Compass Hill to enjoy splendid views of the Cuillins on Skye.
The following morning was 'all change' in the weather department and we were greeted with what the Scots would call a 'dreicht' day. We headed for Loch Scavaig on Skye and although the Cuillins were now shrouded in mist and rain this seemed to add to the overall atmosphere of the location. Despite the rain, most guests went ashore for a short walk up to Loch Coruisk before we sailed on to Tarbert, Loch Nevis. The following morning, the weather seemed to have got its act together again and we were met with a bright, sunny morning, so it was all ashore for a walk up to Loch Morar- the deepest freshwater Loch in Scotland- and enjoy some the the scenery around the Knoydart Estate. The guests were loving the scenery around Loch Nevis so we set off for even wilder Loch Hourn - which seemed to be hosting its own private rainstorm! However, once again, this seemed to provide some really 'atmospheric' views and no one was disappointed.
Just to at the mouth of Loch Hourn where it spills into the Sound of Sleat is the little anchorage at Sandaig - the setting for Gavin Maxwell's 'Ring of Bright Water'. It was here that we decided to spend the night, but not before venturing ashore again where the guests were presented with the challege of the two-rope bridge. Undaunted, they all safely passed both ways, although some provided more amusement than others with their attempts...
There had been several requests to see Fingals Cave, so the following morning we cruised south again towards Loch na Keal, which lies to the south of Mull, and the sheltered anchorage at Gometra Harbour. Another fine afternoon saw everyone heading ashore, with the more adventurous souls walking around the harbour and crossing the tiny bridge to Ulva, where incredible feats of mountaineering (hang on, it's not that high...no, I don't believe it either..!) were apparently carried out. As evening fell a magnificent full moon followed a deep red sunset to illuminate the islands.
Sailing as breakfast was served the following morning, we were soon at Staffa and enjoying views of the caves and rock formatons in the early morning light. Sailing passed the Cairn na Burgh islands (part of the Treshnish group) we noticed that there were basking sharks feeding in the tidal stream created by a strong ebb tide. Everyone was out on deck enjoying a beautifully sunny morning and as we sailed north past Calgary Bay toward the Sound of Mull we spotted another eight sharks cruising up and down in the current.
Our destination for the afternoon was Loch Aline, but the highest (and therefor the lowest!) tides for 25 years meant that we would have to wait until there was a safe amount of water in the entrance to the loch. So we made a brief visit to Tobermory for lunch (yes, yes, and the chocolate factory and the distillery...) before moving on.
We certainly hadn't missed out on wildlife while at sea over the last week, but walking around Loch Aline added a new dimension to what we'd seen. The hedgerows and verges were bursting with plants, flowers, berries and fruits. After another calm, moonlit night, we made our way back towards Oban the following morning. However, just as the previous trip had started with a surprise visit, so this trip ended with one with an excellent close up view of two adult sea-eagles basking in the morning sun. And where exactly was this? Ah well, that would be telling.....
And finally......Cruise 14 - 4 nights
It's good to finish on a 'high' - and we we certainly did this year! Within an hour of leaving Oban, we spotted our first sea eagle, which laconically flapped away from its perch as we passed it by, flying right over the bow of Chalice - not bad!
We slipped into Tobermory and picked up a mooring for our first night before heading straight off for the Treshnish Isles, Staffa and Loch Na Keal the following morning. It was bright and sunny, although a stiff southwesterly breeze and a strong swell ruled out a landing on Lunga so we paid a visit to Fingal's Cave and then sailed on to Gometra where we anchored for lunch. Within minutes one guest spotted an otter swimming and feeding in the harbour. The guests all went ashore for a walk and then we sailed again around to Loch Tuath to ensure even better shelter from a strengthening wind.
Soriby Bay in Loch Tuath provided a perfect anchorage for the night, and after a lovely sunset we enjoyed a spectacular view of the stars - including the milky way. It's amazing how much difference ther is being away from any light pollution. The next morning we spent some time with basking sharks as we headed up towards Sanna Bay on the Ardnamurchan peninsula. However, the swell was to defeat our landing again, so we headed on to Loch Ceann Traigh and enjoyed a spledid afternoon on a sheltered, sandy beach that could have been lifted straight fom a tropical island - only we had views of Run and the Cuillin Hills on Skye.
Chalice at anchor, Loch Ceann Traigh, with the Skye Cuillins in the background.
Heading back around Ardnamurchan later in the day we spotted a Minke whale and saw many gannets feeding. Our destination was Loch Drum na Bhuide which we reached just after 8.00pm - in the dark! It's amazing how quickly the nights seem to be drawing in now that summer has passed. The next morning was dull and misty, with a persistent rain threatening to dampen the day. We sailed into Loch Sunart for a while, then headed back to Tobermory for lunch, going alongside the new pontoon. Pretty son the sun was shining again and after lunch some guests went for a walk to Aros Park, while others opted for a wander around the town for a while.
Tobermory always seems to 
be a 'hit' with guests, with it's quirky, brightly painted houses on the main street, selection of 'different' shops (not to mention the chocolate factory!) and distillery. After a few days away at sea, it's sometimes a novelty to be able to buy a newspaper! Anyway, we then sailed down to Loch Aline for our final night, where we all went for a walk ashore before one of Jane's famous roast beef dinners, once again enjoying the abundance of the hedgerows in the late afternoon sun.
The final morning produced a sea eagle high over the loch, being mobbed by a buzzard. Then on our way back to Oban, we enjoyed good views of another two sea eagles perched on rocks soaking up the morning sunlight.
28th September - Almost there....
We know that the cruising season is over when we finally sail into the Caledonian Canal at Corpach, where Chalice will once again be spending the winter. The canal offers a safe berth where Chalice can sit in fresh water, securely tied to a quay wall and sheltered from the worst of any weather.
At the moment Chalice is sitting on a temporary berth at Corpach until we can safely take up our winter berth at Banavie, at the top of Neptunes Staircase. Here we have shore power, easy access and fantasic views of Loch Nevis and Aonach Mhor - but more of that later perhaps!
But this doesn't mean that we won't be working - planned maintenance for the winter can now begin. Apart from the seemingly endless painting, we're going to be fitting new quiet-flush toilets (one button, not three!) and a new central heating boiler that will make the heating system more controllable.
We've also been listening to your comments and suggestions through the season and there will be various improvements going on in most of the cabins too - but again more of that later....
BBC Wildlife Magazine - October Issue!
Travel writer James Fair joined us earlier in the season for a trip to St Kilda and we've been rewarded with a very favourable four-page write-up in the October issue of BBC Wildlife magazine. Poor weather prevented us from even venturing through the Sound of Harris, but in true Chalice style, we just headed off in another direction.
The 'Chalice Gang' actually feature quite prominently in this issue, with Skipper Chris providing some light entertainment in the 'Tales from the Bush' section and photographer Chris Gomersall giving some sound tips on wildllife photography.
Anyway - don't just sit there - dash out now and get a copy and see for yourself!
The BBC Wildlife magazine website is at http://www.bbcwildlifemagazine.com/